redbike64
2003-05-27 04:28:28 UTC
Gregory G Pack
Field Report
Product Information
Name: Gregory G pack
Maker: Gregory Mountain Products
www.gregorypacks.com
Year of manufacture: 2003
Type: Lightweight, top-loading internal frame backpack
Size: Large
Stated capacity: 3,300 ci (54 liters)
Stated weight: 2 lbs 14 oz (1.3 kg)
Measured weight: 2lb 14 oz (1.3 kg)
List price: US$149
Tester Information
Tester: Rick Dreher
Email: redbike64(at)ziplip(dot)com
Stats
Male
H: 6 ft (1.83 meters)
Torso length (as measured using Gregory Fit-O-Matic jig): 19.5
inches (49 cm)
W: 175 lbs (79 kg, 12 1/2 Stones)
Age: 49
Location: Northern Calif.
Years backpacking experience: 35
Backpacking skill level: mid to advanced
Style of backpacking: Lightweight, two- to eight-day trips in mostly
alpine settings
The Gregory G pack is the largest of their new "Sport" series of
lightweight backpacks. It is unique in Gregory's backpack lineup, in
that it doesn't have myriad fitting options and is intended for
maximum pack weights of 25 pounds (11.4 kg).
Product Packaging
The test subject is a production model complete with hangtag. The
color: True Blue, a deep aquamarine, with black and gray trim. The G
pack's hangtag deserves praise. Far more useful and informative than
is typical, the tag -- a booklet, really -- has ten pages of
information on the company, the pack, and most importantly, proper
fitting and packing. The portion on fitting is three pages itself.
Bravo! One area that would benefit from more explanation is the G's
large array of straps, we're left to guess on the correct way to use
several of them.
Materials and Construction
The G pack combines several fabrics and an innovative pack
suspension:
30 denier G fabric (siliconized ripstop nylon) used on major
body and lid panels
210 denier double box bottom fabric (coated ripstop nylon)
used on bottom and high-wear areas
Nylon netting, forming a portion of the front pocket for
item visibility and ventilation
Coolmesh(?) fabric on all belt, shoulder strap and back
padding (open cell foam) to draw perspiration away from the body
Hollow aluminum single stay, preformed to follow the back
Hourglass flex framesheet, a back panel that, curved into
shape by the attached stay, comprises the "skeleton" portion of the
G pack's suspension
Waterproof zip closure for top pocket
Construction quality appears flawless: stitching is even, straight
and seems robust. Bar tacking is used in high-stress locations and
potential high-wear seams are bias-taped. There are no exposed raw
seams or loose threads. The fabrics are a combination of very
lightweight siliconized and more traditional and more rugged
urethane-coated ripstop nylon. I would hesitate to do extreme
bushwhacking or squeeze through narrow rocky passages with this
pack, or any pack made of silnylon. The material is very thin, and
likely will cut and abrade fairly easily if clawed by sharp brush or
scraped by rock. Its tear and burst strength seem very good though,
based on my tug-and-pull tests. My experience with a silnylon tarp
and stuff sacks has been that this material is really quite strong.
My approach to using nearly any piece of lightweight gear is to
trade the benefit of reduced weight with a bit of extra care in the
gear's use. Stronger fabric is used on the G pack in obvious wear
points, like the bottom, but the silnylon makes up the majority of
the pack body and lid. (Gregory makes plenty of packs that would
survive quite well after being dragged a few miles behind a speeding
Jeep or tossed down a mountainside. The G pack is for a different
customer.)
Gregory has changed the G pack's specifications from what it says on
my pack's hangtag. The size large capacity has been adjusted up to
3,300 c.i. (54 liters) from the initial 3,100, and the weight has
been changed to 2lb 14 oz (1.3 kg) from the original 2 lb 10 oz. My
sample's weight now matches Gregory's specification, and I'll take
them at their word on the extra capacity.
Design
Pack and lid. The G pack has a single compartment top-loading main
compartment with an extension collar and floating lid. The collar
closes with a drawcord and cord lock. The lid is a single pouch with
a two-way water-resistant zipper. The lid is both adjustable and
removable, and attaches to the pack by two straps. Inside is a small
key-keeper clip. The body has two pockets: One, called the bucket
pocket, wraps completely around the body's sides and front,
extending about three-quarters of the way up at center from the
pack's bottom. It's made of double box nylon, silnylon and mesh
panels at the sides; has an elastic top; and is secured from above
with three strap-and-buckle attachments. This pocket is huge and
appears to add strength to the pack body as well as keeping items
easily accessible. A casual glance at the G pack gives the
impression of there being three pockets: a large one at the center
and two small mesh pockets on the sides, but it really is just a
single very large one. The second pocket is inside the main
compartment at the back, running the width of the back panel and
extending about halfway down from the top. The construction is
interesting, in that it doesn't use the interior for part of the
pocket (like a back pocket on a pair of jeans) but, rather, is a
self-contained pouch attached only at the sides. It's possible that
the intent is to allow carrying tall objects, such as tent poles, in
the main compartment by sliding them behind this pocket. The user
guide is mute on the pocket's very existence, so we're left to guess
about the design. The pocket's mission is probably to hold heavy
items, most probably a water supply, in keeping with Gregory's
packing guideline for keeping weight high and close to the back.
Straps, padding and frame. The shoulder straps and waistbelt are
sewn in -- there are no user adjustments of their attachment points
possible. They are faced with absorbent mesh and padded with a
fairly dense (closed-cell?) foam. The waistbelt closes with a single
buckle and has control straps at the sides that attach to the pack
body; the shoulder straps have load control straps that attach to
the pack's top. There's also an elastic-damped sternum strap with
multiple attachment points on the shoulder straps to customize the
fit. Sewn inside the pack's back is the frame, or back panel, a
contoured piece of plastic sheeting with a single stay that's
attached by webbing sewn to the panel's center. The stay, a hollow
aluminum tube, forms the panel into an s-curve that generally
follows the wearer's back contour. The panel is rigid enough to
protect the back from protruding packed objects, but still flexes in
use. It is not user-removable. The pack's back has three pads: a
lumbar pad across the bottom and two vertical pads running
vertically above, on either side. The space between these vertical
pads forms an open "chimney" intended to maximize back ventilation
during use. The pads are of open-celled foam and are covered by the
same mesh as the waistbelt and shoulder straps.
Accessories
The G pack is free of most weight-adding features typical of heavier
overnight and expedition backpacks. In my experience, few of these
items, such as ice axe carriers, crampon patches, multiple pockets,
etc., end up being used often, or are terribly critical. I do wonder
how I can carry items such as trekking poles and snowshoes that
might be needed only intermittently on the trail.
Fitting the G pack
Because of the limited number of adjustments and the absence of
interchangeable parts -- specifically, waist belts and shoulder
harnesses -- fitting the G pack is a relatively straightforward
process. Gregory uses a three-part fitting system of trained
retailers, the Fit-O-Matic fitting device, and very detailed pack
sizing information to help you get a pack that fits correctly. Start
with the correct pack size, a decision that can't be overemphasized
in its importance. Go to a dealer who stocks the three G pack sizes
and who knows how to use the Fit-O-Matic jig. Because I was
fortunate to speak at length with Wayne Gregory himself, I was well
prepared for a pre-fitting session at a local Gregory dealer using
this device. It showed me to have a 19.5-inch (45 cm) torso length.
This was interesting, as I'd always come up with a measurement of
about 21 inches in the past, using a tape measure. Trying another
maker's jig that same day, we came up with a measurement of about
20.5 inches. The other jig was much simpler than Gregory's and used
a different bottom measuring point, which resulted in the longer
measurement. Another likely factor is the relentless passing of
time. Our spines curve and become more compacted with age, so
effective torso length shortens, meaning I probably once had a
longer back than today.
Based on my fitting experience for the G pack, my conclusion is: Use
the measurement method devised by the maker when fitting that
maker's pack. The measured lengths aren't necessarily
interchangeable among brands.
Once the correct pack size is selected, the final steps for getting
a correct fit are provided by the hangtag, beginning with this four-
step process with the lightly loaded pack (5-10 pounds/2.5-5 kg):
Standing on one leg with the other held in front at 90
degrees, the waist belt's bottom should be even with the top of your
extended thigh.
With the shoulder stabilizer (load lifter) straps loose, the
padded strap's bottom buckle should be a minimum of 2 inches (5 cm)
from the webbing strap's attachment point on the pack body.
The shoulder harness curve should be level with your armpit.
When slightly tensioned, the load lifter straps should form
a 25 degree angle.
Continue the fitting as follows:
The incrementally adjustable sternum strap can go anywhere
it is comfortable and doesn't restrict breathing.
The top waist belt edge of the lightly loaded pack should
ride 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the top of your hip bone.
Finish the fitting as follows:
Loosen all straps and don your fully loaded pack.
Tighten the shoulder straps first then, while shrugging your
shoulders, buckle the waist belt and tighten it, double-checking
that you've still got the 1-inch (25 cm) margin above the hipbone.
Tighten the waist belt and the load lifter straps to achieve
the 25-degree angle.
Tighten the waistbelt's load control straps.
Done.
Packing the G pack
Guidelines for packing the G pack are the same as for any suspended
pack: Medium-weight items on the bottom and adjacent to the lower
back, heavy items against the upper back, and light items behind the
heavy items and in the top pocket. There are no guidelines given for
the large front bucket pocket, but in keeping with the overall
packing theme, it should be loaded only with light items, such as
clothing, shelter and ground cloth, at least at the pocket's center.
Water or snacks might be carried to the sides, close to the hips,
provided they're packed in a way that they don't migrate about while
hiking.
I violate the general guideline packing my sleeping bag on the very
bottom of the main compartment. I also carry camera, film, knife,
bandana, bug repellant and snacks in the top pocket. Here's my
overnight packing list:
WM Ultralight sleeping bag
Hennessy Ultralight hammock
Full-length foam pad
Down jacket
Rain gear
Fleece zip-t
Zephur pants
Miscellaneous additional clothing
MSR Titan kettle, cup, stove, fuel, kitchen kit
Toiletries
"Ten essentials"
Compact camera & film
Map, compass, GPS
Water filter
Food & water
This gear all goes in easily, barely filling the G pack to capacity.
It comes in at about 24 pounds (11 kg) total weight. Extra food and
packing fluffy clothing can be accommodated by using the extension
collar. When doing so, by adjusting straps the top pocket extends to
stay centered as needed. By correctly arranging the gear and
following Gregory's fitting and packing guidelines, the G pack fits
and carries well. While the G pack carries adequately with a heavier
load, and its generous capacity makes it easy to do go over the
design limit, keeping the total under 25 pounds makes the fit and
feel terrific -- as comfortable as any pack I've had on.
On the trail
The G pack has been with me to the Sierra and to the California
coast, on dayhikes and one overnight. For simple fair weather
dayhikes involving minimal gear and supplies, the G pack is really
too large for me alone. The lack of a compression strap scheme means
that the load accumulates on the pack's bottom, which affects the
fit. However, when carrying clothing and supplies for the whole
family or for wintertime dayhikes when I lug plenty of spare, warm
clothing, its generous capacity comes in handy swallowing
everything with ease. In this type of service, it's a bit of a
cliché but I can honestly say that the pack nearly disappears with
sub-20-pound (9kg) loads. One small problem I encountered is that
the top pocket doesn't seat well when the pack isn't fairly full.
The attachment straps tend to move around in front of the top of the
framesheet. It's not a big problem, but an annoyance nevertheless,
especially when there's some weight in the pocket. Another small
annoyance arose using the G pack in the snow. When setting it down
after I'd been wearing it, the warm open-celled foam backpad wicked
up a lot of moisture from the snow. Because it's a top-loader, the G
pack at least doesn't require laying it flat on the snow to get
inside. It could really get wet if that were the case.
I never found an adequate way to attach snowshoes to the G pack.
Mine (Atlas 1022s) have aggressive cleats that can't be simply
cinched down underneath the top strap, under the top pocket, without
risking damage to the pack fabric. Facing them cleat-to-cleat leaves
the very bulky bindings in the way. Unfortunately, the top is only
spot I can see to attach them. This isn't a problem unique to the G
pack; I've gouged more than one traditional heavy duty pack with
snowshoes before. My hammocking pad, a bulky foam affair, is another
challenge to the G pack. On other packs I rig some 1/8-inch bungee
cord to carry it vertically on back, using available attachment
points. This is the best compromise to keep the pad from getting in
the way on the trail. So far it escapes me how to do the same on the
G pack; its stripped-down design has eliminated lash points. The top
strap is long enough to hold the pad crossways on top, under the top
pocket. The only problem with this arrangement is the pad's width
can get in the way on the trail. I've also overcome any temptation
I've had to trim the G's straps (other than the waistbelt straps).
If they weren't as long as they are, I could never have pulled off
my pad-on-top trick.
On the trail I find it possible, but difficult to retrieve items
from the sides of the bucket pocket. It takes a contortionist's
reach, and the items must be packed well so they don't migrate to
where they're not reachable. It would be easier to do so if the
pocket's top were made an inch or two lower. One adjustment I've
made is to carry my compact camera in a waistbelt pouch instead of
in the pocket, where it's easily at hand.
Loading a water bladder in the inner pocket means routing the hose
through the top opening, under the arm and attaching to the shoulder
strap. This takes a long hose, and I've been using a 42-inch (about
1 meter) hose to fill the bill. A short hose can present some
frustration, unless the bladder is carried outside, in the bucket
pocket.
Trail conditions so far have been cold to mild (20 to 60 deg. F/ -5
to 15 deg C), so I've not yet tested the efficacy of the G pack's
back pad and ventilation capabilities. The padding and framesheet
offer good protection from the pack's contents, e.g., a cookpot
doesn't dig in to my back while on the trail. At my 24-pound (11 kg)
trail weight the pack carries well indeed. It keeps the load under
control, and allows good load proportioning between shoulders and
hips (I prefer what I guess to be roughly a 25%/75% distribution).
The G's shoulder straps are a little wider than is ideal for me, so
I need to pull them in a bit with the sternum strap. Because of the
light load, this isn't uncomfortable as it might be on a heavier
pack. The silicone fabric has picked up some minor abrasion marks,
and I've been cautious about avoiding rocks and branches on the
trail. The mesh and heavier fabrics still look like new. As noted
earlier, the lack of internal volume (load) control means that a
less-than-full pack can affect how well the G controls the load.
This is something to keep in mind should one plan on using the G
pack on a long trip when use of food means a diminishing pack
volume. One possible solution is to stuff the sleeping bag loosely
to take up the excess space.
Conclusions
The G pack delivers on the promise of carrying a legitimate
overnight load comfortably and providing a full suspension at less
than 3 pounds. The pack's large capacity actually tempts overloading
it beyond the design specification. By avoiding the temptation to
stuff it with heavy items and keeping it within the limit, the G
pack rewards by carrying very comfortably. Over packing by four of
five pounds (2 kg) didn't make it *uncomfortable*, but the load is
less well controlled, i.e., the pack doesn't move with me as well.
Suggestions for improvement include dividing the bucket pocket into
three sections and lowering the mesh sides to allow easier access on
the trail; adding load control straps to reduce pack volume with
less-than-full loads; adding lash points to allow external strapping
of items; adding a drinking hose hole.
Brief Backpacking Bio and Experience with Similar Backpacks
I learned about camping and hiking in Boy Scouts, tramping the
Washington Cascade foothills (lugging Trapper Nelson and BSA
aluminum-canvas backpacks, kapok sleeping bags and always an axe).
From these beginnings I eventually learned backpacking as a singular
pursuit and became at home in the Cascades and Olympics. Today, most
of my hiking is in the Sierra Nevada, the trips ranging from
overnight to weeklong excursions. The last two or three years I've
been fairly successful shedding pounds and ounces from my pack. I've
done this for several reasons: traveling easier and farther, freeing
myself from as many trappings as I'm comfortable with and extending
the duration of my backpacking career. My total pack weight for
three-day summer excursions, including food, is now roughly 25
pounds (12.5 kg) and my most-recent eight-day trip starting weight
(sans water) began at a bit over 30 (14 kg).
My thanks to Gregory and BackPackGearTest for the opportunity to
participate in this field test.
RTD 05.27.03
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important Questions.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/CNxFAA/V4TolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BackpackGearTest-unsubscribe-***@public.gmane.org
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Field Report
Product Information
Name: Gregory G pack
Maker: Gregory Mountain Products
www.gregorypacks.com
Year of manufacture: 2003
Type: Lightweight, top-loading internal frame backpack
Size: Large
Stated capacity: 3,300 ci (54 liters)
Stated weight: 2 lbs 14 oz (1.3 kg)
Measured weight: 2lb 14 oz (1.3 kg)
List price: US$149
Tester Information
Tester: Rick Dreher
Email: redbike64(at)ziplip(dot)com
Stats
Male
H: 6 ft (1.83 meters)
Torso length (as measured using Gregory Fit-O-Matic jig): 19.5
inches (49 cm)
W: 175 lbs (79 kg, 12 1/2 Stones)
Age: 49
Location: Northern Calif.
Years backpacking experience: 35
Backpacking skill level: mid to advanced
Style of backpacking: Lightweight, two- to eight-day trips in mostly
alpine settings
The Gregory G pack is the largest of their new "Sport" series of
lightweight backpacks. It is unique in Gregory's backpack lineup, in
that it doesn't have myriad fitting options and is intended for
maximum pack weights of 25 pounds (11.4 kg).
Product Packaging
The test subject is a production model complete with hangtag. The
color: True Blue, a deep aquamarine, with black and gray trim. The G
pack's hangtag deserves praise. Far more useful and informative than
is typical, the tag -- a booklet, really -- has ten pages of
information on the company, the pack, and most importantly, proper
fitting and packing. The portion on fitting is three pages itself.
Bravo! One area that would benefit from more explanation is the G's
large array of straps, we're left to guess on the correct way to use
several of them.
Materials and Construction
The G pack combines several fabrics and an innovative pack
suspension:
30 denier G fabric (siliconized ripstop nylon) used on major
body and lid panels
210 denier double box bottom fabric (coated ripstop nylon)
used on bottom and high-wear areas
Nylon netting, forming a portion of the front pocket for
item visibility and ventilation
Coolmesh(?) fabric on all belt, shoulder strap and back
padding (open cell foam) to draw perspiration away from the body
Hollow aluminum single stay, preformed to follow the back
Hourglass flex framesheet, a back panel that, curved into
shape by the attached stay, comprises the "skeleton" portion of the
G pack's suspension
Waterproof zip closure for top pocket
Construction quality appears flawless: stitching is even, straight
and seems robust. Bar tacking is used in high-stress locations and
potential high-wear seams are bias-taped. There are no exposed raw
seams or loose threads. The fabrics are a combination of very
lightweight siliconized and more traditional and more rugged
urethane-coated ripstop nylon. I would hesitate to do extreme
bushwhacking or squeeze through narrow rocky passages with this
pack, or any pack made of silnylon. The material is very thin, and
likely will cut and abrade fairly easily if clawed by sharp brush or
scraped by rock. Its tear and burst strength seem very good though,
based on my tug-and-pull tests. My experience with a silnylon tarp
and stuff sacks has been that this material is really quite strong.
My approach to using nearly any piece of lightweight gear is to
trade the benefit of reduced weight with a bit of extra care in the
gear's use. Stronger fabric is used on the G pack in obvious wear
points, like the bottom, but the silnylon makes up the majority of
the pack body and lid. (Gregory makes plenty of packs that would
survive quite well after being dragged a few miles behind a speeding
Jeep or tossed down a mountainside. The G pack is for a different
customer.)
Gregory has changed the G pack's specifications from what it says on
my pack's hangtag. The size large capacity has been adjusted up to
3,300 c.i. (54 liters) from the initial 3,100, and the weight has
been changed to 2lb 14 oz (1.3 kg) from the original 2 lb 10 oz. My
sample's weight now matches Gregory's specification, and I'll take
them at their word on the extra capacity.
Design
Pack and lid. The G pack has a single compartment top-loading main
compartment with an extension collar and floating lid. The collar
closes with a drawcord and cord lock. The lid is a single pouch with
a two-way water-resistant zipper. The lid is both adjustable and
removable, and attaches to the pack by two straps. Inside is a small
key-keeper clip. The body has two pockets: One, called the bucket
pocket, wraps completely around the body's sides and front,
extending about three-quarters of the way up at center from the
pack's bottom. It's made of double box nylon, silnylon and mesh
panels at the sides; has an elastic top; and is secured from above
with three strap-and-buckle attachments. This pocket is huge and
appears to add strength to the pack body as well as keeping items
easily accessible. A casual glance at the G pack gives the
impression of there being three pockets: a large one at the center
and two small mesh pockets on the sides, but it really is just a
single very large one. The second pocket is inside the main
compartment at the back, running the width of the back panel and
extending about halfway down from the top. The construction is
interesting, in that it doesn't use the interior for part of the
pocket (like a back pocket on a pair of jeans) but, rather, is a
self-contained pouch attached only at the sides. It's possible that
the intent is to allow carrying tall objects, such as tent poles, in
the main compartment by sliding them behind this pocket. The user
guide is mute on the pocket's very existence, so we're left to guess
about the design. The pocket's mission is probably to hold heavy
items, most probably a water supply, in keeping with Gregory's
packing guideline for keeping weight high and close to the back.
Straps, padding and frame. The shoulder straps and waistbelt are
sewn in -- there are no user adjustments of their attachment points
possible. They are faced with absorbent mesh and padded with a
fairly dense (closed-cell?) foam. The waistbelt closes with a single
buckle and has control straps at the sides that attach to the pack
body; the shoulder straps have load control straps that attach to
the pack's top. There's also an elastic-damped sternum strap with
multiple attachment points on the shoulder straps to customize the
fit. Sewn inside the pack's back is the frame, or back panel, a
contoured piece of plastic sheeting with a single stay that's
attached by webbing sewn to the panel's center. The stay, a hollow
aluminum tube, forms the panel into an s-curve that generally
follows the wearer's back contour. The panel is rigid enough to
protect the back from protruding packed objects, but still flexes in
use. It is not user-removable. The pack's back has three pads: a
lumbar pad across the bottom and two vertical pads running
vertically above, on either side. The space between these vertical
pads forms an open "chimney" intended to maximize back ventilation
during use. The pads are of open-celled foam and are covered by the
same mesh as the waistbelt and shoulder straps.
Accessories
The G pack is free of most weight-adding features typical of heavier
overnight and expedition backpacks. In my experience, few of these
items, such as ice axe carriers, crampon patches, multiple pockets,
etc., end up being used often, or are terribly critical. I do wonder
how I can carry items such as trekking poles and snowshoes that
might be needed only intermittently on the trail.
Fitting the G pack
Because of the limited number of adjustments and the absence of
interchangeable parts -- specifically, waist belts and shoulder
harnesses -- fitting the G pack is a relatively straightforward
process. Gregory uses a three-part fitting system of trained
retailers, the Fit-O-Matic fitting device, and very detailed pack
sizing information to help you get a pack that fits correctly. Start
with the correct pack size, a decision that can't be overemphasized
in its importance. Go to a dealer who stocks the three G pack sizes
and who knows how to use the Fit-O-Matic jig. Because I was
fortunate to speak at length with Wayne Gregory himself, I was well
prepared for a pre-fitting session at a local Gregory dealer using
this device. It showed me to have a 19.5-inch (45 cm) torso length.
This was interesting, as I'd always come up with a measurement of
about 21 inches in the past, using a tape measure. Trying another
maker's jig that same day, we came up with a measurement of about
20.5 inches. The other jig was much simpler than Gregory's and used
a different bottom measuring point, which resulted in the longer
measurement. Another likely factor is the relentless passing of
time. Our spines curve and become more compacted with age, so
effective torso length shortens, meaning I probably once had a
longer back than today.
Based on my fitting experience for the G pack, my conclusion is: Use
the measurement method devised by the maker when fitting that
maker's pack. The measured lengths aren't necessarily
interchangeable among brands.
Once the correct pack size is selected, the final steps for getting
a correct fit are provided by the hangtag, beginning with this four-
step process with the lightly loaded pack (5-10 pounds/2.5-5 kg):
Standing on one leg with the other held in front at 90
degrees, the waist belt's bottom should be even with the top of your
extended thigh.
With the shoulder stabilizer (load lifter) straps loose, the
padded strap's bottom buckle should be a minimum of 2 inches (5 cm)
from the webbing strap's attachment point on the pack body.
The shoulder harness curve should be level with your armpit.
When slightly tensioned, the load lifter straps should form
a 25 degree angle.
Continue the fitting as follows:
The incrementally adjustable sternum strap can go anywhere
it is comfortable and doesn't restrict breathing.
The top waist belt edge of the lightly loaded pack should
ride 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the top of your hip bone.
Finish the fitting as follows:
Loosen all straps and don your fully loaded pack.
Tighten the shoulder straps first then, while shrugging your
shoulders, buckle the waist belt and tighten it, double-checking
that you've still got the 1-inch (25 cm) margin above the hipbone.
Tighten the waist belt and the load lifter straps to achieve
the 25-degree angle.
Tighten the waistbelt's load control straps.
Done.
Packing the G pack
Guidelines for packing the G pack are the same as for any suspended
pack: Medium-weight items on the bottom and adjacent to the lower
back, heavy items against the upper back, and light items behind the
heavy items and in the top pocket. There are no guidelines given for
the large front bucket pocket, but in keeping with the overall
packing theme, it should be loaded only with light items, such as
clothing, shelter and ground cloth, at least at the pocket's center.
Water or snacks might be carried to the sides, close to the hips,
provided they're packed in a way that they don't migrate about while
hiking.
I violate the general guideline packing my sleeping bag on the very
bottom of the main compartment. I also carry camera, film, knife,
bandana, bug repellant and snacks in the top pocket. Here's my
overnight packing list:
WM Ultralight sleeping bag
Hennessy Ultralight hammock
Full-length foam pad
Down jacket
Rain gear
Fleece zip-t
Zephur pants
Miscellaneous additional clothing
MSR Titan kettle, cup, stove, fuel, kitchen kit
Toiletries
"Ten essentials"
Compact camera & film
Map, compass, GPS
Water filter
Food & water
This gear all goes in easily, barely filling the G pack to capacity.
It comes in at about 24 pounds (11 kg) total weight. Extra food and
packing fluffy clothing can be accommodated by using the extension
collar. When doing so, by adjusting straps the top pocket extends to
stay centered as needed. By correctly arranging the gear and
following Gregory's fitting and packing guidelines, the G pack fits
and carries well. While the G pack carries adequately with a heavier
load, and its generous capacity makes it easy to do go over the
design limit, keeping the total under 25 pounds makes the fit and
feel terrific -- as comfortable as any pack I've had on.
On the trail
The G pack has been with me to the Sierra and to the California
coast, on dayhikes and one overnight. For simple fair weather
dayhikes involving minimal gear and supplies, the G pack is really
too large for me alone. The lack of a compression strap scheme means
that the load accumulates on the pack's bottom, which affects the
fit. However, when carrying clothing and supplies for the whole
family or for wintertime dayhikes when I lug plenty of spare, warm
clothing, its generous capacity comes in handy swallowing
everything with ease. In this type of service, it's a bit of a
cliché but I can honestly say that the pack nearly disappears with
sub-20-pound (9kg) loads. One small problem I encountered is that
the top pocket doesn't seat well when the pack isn't fairly full.
The attachment straps tend to move around in front of the top of the
framesheet. It's not a big problem, but an annoyance nevertheless,
especially when there's some weight in the pocket. Another small
annoyance arose using the G pack in the snow. When setting it down
after I'd been wearing it, the warm open-celled foam backpad wicked
up a lot of moisture from the snow. Because it's a top-loader, the G
pack at least doesn't require laying it flat on the snow to get
inside. It could really get wet if that were the case.
I never found an adequate way to attach snowshoes to the G pack.
Mine (Atlas 1022s) have aggressive cleats that can't be simply
cinched down underneath the top strap, under the top pocket, without
risking damage to the pack fabric. Facing them cleat-to-cleat leaves
the very bulky bindings in the way. Unfortunately, the top is only
spot I can see to attach them. This isn't a problem unique to the G
pack; I've gouged more than one traditional heavy duty pack with
snowshoes before. My hammocking pad, a bulky foam affair, is another
challenge to the G pack. On other packs I rig some 1/8-inch bungee
cord to carry it vertically on back, using available attachment
points. This is the best compromise to keep the pad from getting in
the way on the trail. So far it escapes me how to do the same on the
G pack; its stripped-down design has eliminated lash points. The top
strap is long enough to hold the pad crossways on top, under the top
pocket. The only problem with this arrangement is the pad's width
can get in the way on the trail. I've also overcome any temptation
I've had to trim the G's straps (other than the waistbelt straps).
If they weren't as long as they are, I could never have pulled off
my pad-on-top trick.
On the trail I find it possible, but difficult to retrieve items
from the sides of the bucket pocket. It takes a contortionist's
reach, and the items must be packed well so they don't migrate to
where they're not reachable. It would be easier to do so if the
pocket's top were made an inch or two lower. One adjustment I've
made is to carry my compact camera in a waistbelt pouch instead of
in the pocket, where it's easily at hand.
Loading a water bladder in the inner pocket means routing the hose
through the top opening, under the arm and attaching to the shoulder
strap. This takes a long hose, and I've been using a 42-inch (about
1 meter) hose to fill the bill. A short hose can present some
frustration, unless the bladder is carried outside, in the bucket
pocket.
Trail conditions so far have been cold to mild (20 to 60 deg. F/ -5
to 15 deg C), so I've not yet tested the efficacy of the G pack's
back pad and ventilation capabilities. The padding and framesheet
offer good protection from the pack's contents, e.g., a cookpot
doesn't dig in to my back while on the trail. At my 24-pound (11 kg)
trail weight the pack carries well indeed. It keeps the load under
control, and allows good load proportioning between shoulders and
hips (I prefer what I guess to be roughly a 25%/75% distribution).
The G's shoulder straps are a little wider than is ideal for me, so
I need to pull them in a bit with the sternum strap. Because of the
light load, this isn't uncomfortable as it might be on a heavier
pack. The silicone fabric has picked up some minor abrasion marks,
and I've been cautious about avoiding rocks and branches on the
trail. The mesh and heavier fabrics still look like new. As noted
earlier, the lack of internal volume (load) control means that a
less-than-full pack can affect how well the G controls the load.
This is something to keep in mind should one plan on using the G
pack on a long trip when use of food means a diminishing pack
volume. One possible solution is to stuff the sleeping bag loosely
to take up the excess space.
Conclusions
The G pack delivers on the promise of carrying a legitimate
overnight load comfortably and providing a full suspension at less
than 3 pounds. The pack's large capacity actually tempts overloading
it beyond the design specification. By avoiding the temptation to
stuff it with heavy items and keeping it within the limit, the G
pack rewards by carrying very comfortably. Over packing by four of
five pounds (2 kg) didn't make it *uncomfortable*, but the load is
less well controlled, i.e., the pack doesn't move with me as well.
Suggestions for improvement include dividing the bucket pocket into
three sections and lowering the mesh sides to allow easier access on
the trail; adding load control straps to reduce pack volume with
less-than-full loads; adding lash points to allow external strapping
of items; adding a drinking hose hole.
Brief Backpacking Bio and Experience with Similar Backpacks
I learned about camping and hiking in Boy Scouts, tramping the
Washington Cascade foothills (lugging Trapper Nelson and BSA
aluminum-canvas backpacks, kapok sleeping bags and always an axe).
From these beginnings I eventually learned backpacking as a singular
pursuit and became at home in the Cascades and Olympics. Today, most
of my hiking is in the Sierra Nevada, the trips ranging from
overnight to weeklong excursions. The last two or three years I've
been fairly successful shedding pounds and ounces from my pack. I've
done this for several reasons: traveling easier and farther, freeing
myself from as many trappings as I'm comfortable with and extending
the duration of my backpacking career. My total pack weight for
three-day summer excursions, including food, is now roughly 25
pounds (12.5 kg) and my most-recent eight-day trip starting weight
(sans water) began at a bit over 30 (14 kg).
My thanks to Gregory and BackPackGearTest for the opportunity to
participate in this field test.
RTD 05.27.03
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important Questions.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/CNxFAA/V4TolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BackpackGearTest-unsubscribe-***@public.gmane.org
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/